Everywhere you look in Venice there's an archetypal romantic scene: a short bridge arching over a canal, a gondola gliding by, the moon reflecting off the water. Its winding, narrow streets can be eerily quiet and mysterious, particularly on a foggy night. Without a city's usual traffic noise, you can hear the laughter of children from your window as well as the enigmatic sound of footsteps seemingly just around the corner.

Set between islands connected by bridges, Venice's main street -- the Grand Canal -- is traversed by an assortment of watercraft, from rowboats and water buses to barges piled high with cargo or garbage. During Carnevale (10 days in late February or March), its waterfront is lit by torches at night, as colorfully masked and costumed revelers overrun the city's ancient palaces and public squares.

No wonder Venice is one of the most visited cities on the planet. Within this charming city is a plethora of world-famous museums and artistic treasures. Don't miss highlights such as the Basilica of San Marco (with its spectacular Golden Altar and St. Mark's treasure), the infamous Palazzo Ducale (the Doge's Palace) and its romantic Bridge of Sighs (where prisoners about to enter the dark jail on the other side would stop to enjoy one last glimpse of the beautiful city) or a visit to the fascinating glass factories. Pick a few museums, such as the Gallerie dell'Accademia (art of the 14th-18th centuries) or the Peggy Guggenheim Collection (20th-century art). But just because you'll be bumping into thousands of other visitors there, don't be fooled into thinking it's just a museum of architecture and art. We were delighted to see Venetians chatting with friends in the campi (squares) and sharing a bottle of wine in the osterie.

The city does have its share of problems, too, including winter acqua alta or flooding. Work has begun on a highly controversial scheme called "Moses" to close off the lagoon mouth with mobile floodgates when high tide levels from the Adriatic Sea threaten.

Venice draws as many as 200,000 visitors a day, but the resident population has declined to less than 70,000. Many young people have moved to the mainland, where rents and real-estate prices -- along with the cost of living in general -- are lower. Parts of downtown are dirty and run-down -- and rather smelly in summer heat. People can be brusque. And the prices of virtually everything smack of highway robbery. Even so, it remains a treasure to be savored -- and not just by lovers.